Acne Anxiety

As an Esthetician one of the more common skin conditions I see clients for is acne. Acne is not a just a teenage condition. Most acne will clear by the early twenties but, many people continue to struggle into their 30s, 40s, and even later. Women are more affected than men. The skin on our face, back, and chest contain more hair follicles. Hair follicles contain glands that produce oil. The cells lining the follicle should be shed and when the body produces excessive oil those cells become sticky and aren’t able to shed. The blocked pore than cannot receive oxygen and bacteria will grow in the absence of that oxygen therefore forming a breakout. Our oil glands are influenced by genetics and hormones. We inherit the number and size of our oil glands from our parents.

In adolescent acne there is an overproduction of oil and bacteria. Sadly, some women do not outgrow persistent acne because of lifespan hormonal influences. Acne is most likely to occur mid month before ovulation and before the onset of menses. Menopause can elicit acne when ovaries produce less estrogen and while adrenal glands continue to produce androgen. {Androgen is the male hormone responsible for the facial hair, deeper voice and oil production.}

What works and what does not work in treating acne? 

Most dermatologists will prescribe a long-term antibiotic generally used for 6 months to a year. In addition to antibiotics, a retinoid cream, a derivative of vitamin A that works to unblock pores by continuing to peel off the dead layers of skin. Retinoid cream is a great anti-ager but, can be over irritating.

In extreme cases of acne Accutane may be used with more serious potential side effects. Oral contraceptives have been shown to be effective in clearing acne in women by suppressing the overactive oil glands and can be used as a longer-term therapy. Some people respond to expensive blue and photodynamic light therapy. These work by healing as they reach deeper into the skin.

 These may all work for a while and then acne suffers find themselves feeling desperate again for a solution. I believe a more realistic and more sustainable approach requires implementing a committed home care regime and periodically adjusting topical products during the first several weeks. Using the right products is only half the battle. Using them correctly is the other half.Without 100% compliance of a home care regimen you will not clear your skin. This is especially key with teenagers reluctant to make skincare a part of their routine. It takes three to four months for most acne to heal because it takes that long for acne lesions to form and come to the surface. Diligent home care and patience will prevent new acne lesions from forming.

 Cleansing morning and at the end of the day before bed with a gentle wash {no scrubbing} and cooler to warm water, not hot water to open the pores.

I recommend using a cleanser containing salicylic acid ranging from .5 to 2%. Salicylic is a common ingredient in acne treatment products and encourages the shedding of dead skin cells while reducing inflammation. The shedding of the skin cells will allow your treatment products to penetrate the pores. Some common products containing salicylic are Noxzema, oxy and stridex products.

Another very affective product in fighting acne is Benzoyl Peroxide. Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO) is available in many forms such as gels, creams, and cleansers. Proactive repairing lotion and clearasil are a couple products containing BPO. It has the ability to reduce the number of skin surface bacteria, is an effective antiseptic and anti inflammatory. BPO should be introduced gradually into your daily regimen as a treatment. Less than 1% are allergic to BPO. Use a 2% BPO for three nights for no more than 15 minutes and every third night increase the wearing time 15 minutes until you’ve reached 2 hours. After two weeks of two hours wearing time you should be good to wear it over night. BPO has a bleaching quality so be sure to use white towels and sheets. Do not spot treat as the pores around a breakout are likely blocked also so, treat your entire face staying away from the sensitive eye area.

Avoid the temptation to pop a pimple as you run the risk of spreading bacteria and aggravating acne or scarring. A skincare professional can do proper extractions. When using any acne treatment your skin will be extra sensitive to sun and burning only adding extra irritation. Always use a water based SPF.

 Continuous use of salicylic and BPO products is necessary to obtain and maintain positive results. If you stop your pores will again clog with excess oil and dead skin and acne can return. Be ready to shed a few tears and skin cells on your way to beautiful skin but, you can get there with discipline and determination.

 

Be happy in your skin,

Donna